Hunter Valley Weekend

We finally made it to The Hunter!  The drive is easy and only a couple of hours from Manly.  It’s always funny to me when I’m doing something as mundane in another country like a driving and in looking around you forget that you are in another country because it looks so much like a place you’ve been in the US.  Our trip was like that this weekend.  Much of the scenery was new and interesting to look at but there was one section when we were driving over a water way that both of us were reminded of St. Thomas.  The islands were tall and rocky, covered with trees.  It felt really tropical and seeing the calmness of the water in the river below us made us want to own a lake house and spend some time over there ;)  

We arrived in time for our first tasting at 11 on Saturday morning.  We started at Tatler Vineyard (www.tatlerwines.com).  The wines were ok, but nothing like what we’re used to from South Australia.  The Hunter Valley is known for Semillon and Shiraz but the Shiraz is much more earthy, spicy, and leathery than we’re used to.  Semillon is generally very light and often doesn’t have much taste in my experience.  As we’re bigger, fruiter wine lovers we were both a little unsure of how much we would enjoy the weekend in this particular wine region. After the tasting (we didn’t buy any wines) we had a very nice tapas lunch before heading off to our next location. 

Round two was at Binbadgen (http://www.bimbadgen.com.au/).  We enjoyed the wines more there, and the conversation with the woman serving us from Buffalo, NY but still we weren’t convinced by any of the wines.  The reds weren’t fruity or big enough and the whites were pleasant but nothing to knock your socks off.  The nice thing about this cellar door was the location and atmosphere in the tasting room.  It was a very professional operation and I can see us attending a concert there some day!   

Brokenwood (http://www.brokenwood.com.au/) was the last stop on our list for Saturday.  We were lucky enough to get a private tasting from one of the wine makers (thanks to David’s Managing Director’s connections!)  It was a good education to see how the wines are grown and picked.  She took us in the cast room and gave us some tastes from the barrel of a few different wines.  Then we went inside to the private tasting room upstairs to settle in for an hour of tasting ~15 wines.  She set each group up as a flight so we could see how each wine compared to the next.  We had a lovely time chatting with hear and learning about the nuances of each year.  2007 and 2003 were great years for Hunter Valley wines as they were drought years.  2008 was a flood year.  It’s amazing the differences between the quality and the characteristics of each wine during these years.  Many wineries had to discard their 2008 grapes because of the amount of rain!  Brokenwood is a winery that sources grapes from a number of locations in Australia so they were pretty well protected.  Our favorites at Brokenwood were the dessert wines, but they had a sangiovese with distinctive chocolate flavors that I really enjoyed and a pinot noir that David loved.  

We stayed at Vineyard Hills Retreat (http://www.vineyardhill.com.au/) not far from the vineyards.  We were a little scared pulling into the site, to be honest but once we got into the room we were quite pleased.  We had a nice view of the mountains (see the pictures from our deck) and the accommodations were clean and comfortable.  It would be a great place to go with a bunch of people for a weekend in The Hunter.  We can BBQ and spend the evenings drinking great wine and hanging out in the hot tub or pool =)

Dinner was at a cute little placed called Leaves and Fishes (http://www.leavesandfishes.com/) The setting was quaint and darling.  The dining room was set up on a porch over a pond with a water feature.  The roof was a canvas awning with water dripping over the edges into the pond below.  The sound was like rain falling softly and was really relaxing.  The food was delicious but we were so tired after such a long day of wine that we had to get our main’s to go!  It was a really romantic spot - I wish we had the energy to stay to enjoy it longer ;)

Sunday morning we had a great breakfast at Paterson’s Champagne House (http://www.petersonhouse.com.au/).  Nothing like coffee, sparking wine and a big, delicious breakfast to get you going!   David was feeling a bit dusty from the day before so he skipped out on the bubbly but I was happy to partake.  That experience is a MUST for any Hunter visitors!

We ended our adventure at Piggs Peake (http://www.piggspeake.com/) which was by far my favorite vineyard.  Steve, the wine maker, gave us a personal tour and tasting because it was so slow (being the weekend before Christmas!)  We spent a couple of hours discussing the techniques he uses - the difference between the first squeeze and the second squeeze (first squeeze is when the grapes are pressed lightly and all you get from the grapes is the ripe juice that falls out.  Second press is when the grapes are pressed harder so you get some of the characteristics from the skins and seeds; not simply the juice), where phenolics are found (skins and seeds) and what they do to the wine (they cause the wine to age prematurely), etc.  As he was describing the science of it all, he would give us tastes of the same wine from different years (or made with a different technique) so we could really understand what he was describing.  

We got to taste the fortified Little Pig Verdelho (dessert wine) from 2003 and from 2007 - the 2003 is still in the barrel and he’s not sure when he’s going to bottle it because it just keeps getting better.  The 2007 is what you’re able to buy right now.  The younger wine is released now because he used a technique including the second squeeze to make the wine.  It is aging must faster than the 2003.  For that reason they have to sell it now and have some time to wait with the 2003!  The science of it all is fascinating to me!

We really enjoyed the 2008 Wolfie Zinfandel and the 2009 Bushpig Grenache - this wine  is made from vines that grow freely in the bush (not on wires like you’re used to seeing) and all the grapes are hand-piked.  I described it like, “chewing berries” because it was so fruity and smooth.  I was shocked to have such a fruity wine from The Hunter and very pleased to find it!  

We got to taste the Were Wolf blend (15% Shiraz; 85% Zin) from the barrel as well.  It was lovely and he expects it to be bottled in March.  The Shiraz grapes came from South Australia and were affected by the bush fires which has created a very interesting (and tasty!) quality in the wine.  Steve said this particular Shiraz is not good by itself but when mixed with other grapes it’s amazing.  I think he knows what he’s talking about!

The coolest part of today was getting a decanter of the 2003 Little Pig Verdelho.  We were going to buy the 2007 variety but when Steve realized we were going to do that, he suggested we fill a decanter with the 2003 variety straight from the barrel!  It was such a cool experience!

The good news is that we have found wines that we really enjoy in The Hunter so that means we’ll be going back =)

~LAA =)

Hiking in the Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are really interesting to look at.  They’re all the same height and flat on top.  In the top section of each mountain there is a shear cliff that holds no trees.  The vegetation is only on the very top of the mountain and starting and the skirt around the bottom of these cliffs.  The effect is as though the top of the mountains have been popped up.  As the mountains are made of sandstone and can be blasted by quite a bit of wind, this bare section of the mountains erodes easily which is why nothing grows there. 

We spent the first part of Sunday hiking around the Three Sisters region of the Blue Mountains.  We did the “Great Round Walk” starting at “Secenic Wold” where we hopped on a gondola that took us across the valley in front of Katoomba falls.  The distance over the top of the rain forrest below is double that of the height of the Harbour Bridge!  The floor was made of glass so you could the birds flying under your feet.  

When we got to the other side we started the hike around the top ridge of the mountains.  The view was gorgeous and since it was so early there weren’t many tourists but the pesky flies were a real problem.  We didn’t stay long in any one spot so we could avoid them!

Once we got around the back side of Three Sisters (the famous 3 section rock formation that you always see in the pictures of the Blue Mountains) we started our journey down the Giant Stairway.  There were close to 900 steps down the very steep and narrow passageway.  It took us 20+ minutes to get down - I can only imagine what it would have been like to go UP!  By the time we got to the bottom both of our legs were shaking uncontrollably.  We’re not use to using those muscles! 

At the bottom of the staircase we walked along the path through the rain forrest.  Very peaceful - surrounded by gum trees and birds (and no flies!).  The path is well maintained and we were the only people in hearing distance for most of our trek!  At  the end of the path we got on the cableway to take us back to the top of the mountain; completing the full circle.  The adventure was quite lovely - I would highly recommend it!  Although the staircase is really only for the sure-footed.  I slipped at one point and thought I sprained my thumb (but I’m ok :)).

Off to wine country next weekend!

~LAA =)

Carols in the Caves

I’ll admit it.  I’m a sucker for a Christmas concert.  It’s a great way to get into the spirit and who doesn’t know the words to all the songs?  I was excited for this weekend for a couple of reasons - I wanted to get into the Christmas spirit and I was really looking forward to getting away with David.  

The drive to the Jenolan Caves (http://www.jenolancaves.org.au/) was curvy but pleasant.  The scenery was beautiful and the weather was fair.  We made it to the caves in time to do a tour before the concert.  We were guided through the Orient cave and were fascinated by what we saw!

The caves are made of limestone and were only discovered by Europeans in the late 1800’s (known to the local Aboriginal population for many thousands of years before that as Binoomea, "Dark places") There are many secret caves still being discovered.  They have been well maintained by the staff and recently went through a major lighting renovation, upgrading the lights to LED.  The effect is stunning.  The crystals inside the caves are made when the water slips through the cracks in the stone, dissolving the minerals and creating amazing artistic displays.  The colors vary depending on the environmental factors that year and no two shapes are the same.  The pathway built into each cave is narrow and unobtrusive for the natural environment but it allows spectators to enjoy themselves during the tour.  I’ll warn you it’s not for those who are claustrophobic - it’s a bit cramped in places but certainly worth checking it out.  

The concert was less than thrilling... Unfortunately, while the location was stellar and the acoustics were really amazing, the quality of the singing was sub-par.  David left half way through to take a nap in the car, it was so bad!  We laughed as we left saying we would never do that particular Christmas concert again.  I’m still interested to hear the string quartet play at some point next year, though.  

I’ve attached some pictures of the formations for your enjoyment!

That night, we stayed at at B&B called the Kurrara Historic Guest House located in Katoomba.  Dinner was at Solitary (http://www.solitary.com.au/) just a walk away from the B&B.  The view from the restaurant was lovely and the meal was delicious.  We’ll go back there again for sure.  

~LAA =)